This just in:
This just in:
1. We have heard that elevator bolts that appear to have been sanded down will need to be replaced. As far as we can tell any car that does not have a pre-finished floorboard shows some signs of sanding marks on elevator bolts. How much is too much, how are we to judge what would pass VIP inspection versus not?

2. If elevator bolts are perfectly flush are we to assume that they have been sanded or that some mechanical means has been used to insure that they seat properly? If so, what should be or will be done about this?

3. We continue to hear that floorboards that are too nicely finished are a problem. What is the criteria that this will be judged by and what should be or will be done about this?

4. We have heard that Masters cars with the pinch mount will be required to disassemble the mount for inspection prior to the race. Can you confirm if this is true? If this is true, then you should require all mounts to be disassembled for inspection otherwise it is not fair to everyone. And you will need to give additional time to reassemble the mounts since this will take additional time to do properly.



1. We look at the edge of the bolt and if a couple bolts has been sanded by accident we will tell them to replace them. If all bolts have been sanded we will disqualify the car for altering our parts.

2. This is a judgement call when we see the floorboard. We will look for the sanded elevator bolts or counter sinking drill marks.

3. Another judgement call when we see the floorboard. We look for excess build-up of material. Bottom line, this is not a piece of furniture, don't draw attention to your floorboard.

4. Yes, all pinch mount will be taken apart for inspection. They will have to use the final alignment time to recheck their alignment. We will not give them any extra time. The car builders brought this type of inspection on to themselves.

Derek

Is this response for real? Was this an official response from the NCB? If so did the person responding give their name? If #4 is for real I will want to switch my rally car over to the SS rear end as opposed to realigning at Akron. What are they worried about under those bolt heads?

That was an actual reply to the answers... I remember it because of the reply to No. 4. The reply to No. 4 was your typical pompous attitude from the derby higher ups in Akron.

I believe it was Mark Damon who was responsible for those answers.

If I had a master’s car going to Akron I would switch the mount to the SS mount because you wont have much time or room to get that pinch mount back and perfectly aligned. I know when my dad and I ran the pinch mount back in 04 it was a PAIN to set that mount.. It would take a few runs down the track to get that mount set right and finally tight.

I believe the reason Akron is doing this is because of some people changing the heads of the pinch bolts. Some people are changing the heads so they come to a point (less contact on the axle) or other ways to get less contact on the axle and Akron doesn't like that.

-Chris

Received this email on July 2nd from AA. Would have been nice to have BEFORE our cars where shipped to Akron! Maybe those of you that are closer and have not shipped your cars yet can use this info.

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Hello all Regional and Local Race Directors,

Attached are some suggestions from Rick Acker, a member of the National Control Board, for checking any handbrakes.

Regards,

AASBD
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Here are a few things that can be checked before shipping the car and correct before it arrives for inspection.

Cut, trim, smooth all bolts that can come in contact with the driverís body, hands, feet or ankles. Many people cut bolts but fail to file the bolt after cutting it and leave a sharp edge that can be worse then the longer bolt. This is often the case with the hatch hinge bolts.

Weight bolts
Cut excess length off the rear weight bolt under the drivers head, or fill it with light weight wood blocks, if you want to keep the length. Or be sure it is padded with a substantial pad of some kind. There should be no way for the bolt to stick through the padding. If you have a t-nut & bolt in the rear use a carriage bolt just long enough for the weight with a wing nut to tighten it down, the head of the carriage bolt will be safe. We have stated that there should be no adjustable weights with wing nuts from the front of the base of the steering assembly to the driverís shoulders. If you have wing nuts under the legs on the floorboard they MUST be covered with padding.

No paint or clear coat is allowed on the hatch hinge. If you have bondo under and around the hinge be sure the edge of the hinge can be felt and is visible.

No tape or coverings on the hatch foam.

No tape on axel openings or cable slots unless you have an old slot that the cable does not pass through. Clear tape only, on unused holes in the floorboard.

In the 7 inch wide area from the front rivet of the helmet forward nothing can encroach on this area but foam.

Body screws be sure you have not flattened the finish washers by over tightening.

New style hand brake
Some of the first hand brakes require a slight modification to keep the wheel from hitting the eyebolt on the brake plunger when turning. A shim, screw or other method is needed to tilt the steering column to the rear. A shim can be glued to the front of the steering column where it comes in contact with the u-bracket or to the inside of the u-bracket. You may drill a hole in the u-bracket and place a set screw self tapping screw or pop-rivet in the hole to tilt the steering column back. Any method which will stay in place while racing will be accepted.

file:///Volumes/LEXAR/Additional%20check%20list%20Scottie%20car.txt7/2/2008 3:40:43 AM